Rack

[apneaquatic]

I was just curious to know the contents of people's rack. I realize that the contents will vary depending on location, but it will really help point me in the right direction in regards to basic figures, and tried and tested companies.

At the moment I have a basic (if a little large) trad rack, and I would like to start expanding.

[mungeclimber]

Aliens

Lowe Balls

don't get me started on iron, i'm still building my iron.

[apneaquatic]

How often do you find placements for those ball nuts? Rumor has it that ideal situations for placements are very rare indeed. How true?

At the moment I have my desired rack in list form. Its not really geared towards any big wall in particular, but I can fine tune it depending on my destinations.

-2 sets c4 camalots
-1 set Dmm 3cu
-.33-1 Aliens
-1 set c3 camalots
-2 sets Bd stoppers
-1 set Bd Micros
-2 sets Bronze Rp micros
-1 set DMM offset nuts
-1 set BD hex's
-5x knifeblades
-10x horizontals
-10x angles
-3x peckers
-3x various hooks

And of course all the general gear. Aiders, daisies, ascenders, etc etc.

So far I am about a third of the way there, have most of my passive pro. Need to get the iron and some more cams and I should be there.

[lambone]

One thing missing are Leeper Cam Hooks. Assuming they are included in your Hook selection. Usually 2 of each hook is plenty.

Main uses for Ball-Nutz are if you are committed to clean climbing. Honestly I don't use them as much as I should. They are tricky to place and slow to remove, for me they often pop on the first attempt. I'll try them but if they pop a couple times I'll usually tap in a Lost Arrow. The smallest two sizes are most usefull. Definately worth having on the rack even if you don't use them much.

Regarding your list, I'd ditch the hexes for walls. Skip the DMM and BD 3 cam units. Go for two sets of aliens and two sets of offset aliens if you can find them. It also seems a little heavy on nuts. I pretty much only carry HB Offsets and one set of BD nuts.

Not sure what horizontals are, you mean Arrows?

Here is a good pin rack that will get you up most EC trade routes (Zodiac, T-Trip, Muir Wall, Shield - add more sawed off arrows)
3 KBs
3 Peckers (one of each size) and one Rurp.
8 Arrows  (2-#1s, 3- #2s, 3-#3s, 2-#4s)
10 Angles (2 -1/2", 2- 5/8", 3- Sawed 3/4", 3 Sawed-1", 1- Sawed 1-1/4")
Handfull of heads, chisel and wire brush)


good luck!

[apneaquatic]

Yes, by Horizontals I mean arrows. Sorry.

Aliens I can get fairly easily, so 2 sets of each are definitely possible. Would I bother with a full set? Or just the sizes below 1"?

Thanks for the advice on the nailing kit!

[lambone]

I'd just go up to the 1" (Red) Aliens. If you have 2 sets of C4s that will cover the bigger sizes. If yyou need tripples in a size, likely you'd have a partner who has it, or you can get something cheaper.

[lunchbox]

apneaquatic,

looks your pretty well covered.  Lambone has you on the right track for sure, but I'll add my 2 cents.

Sawed angles are often the only ones that work on EC, except for maybe the two thinest ones.  The best advice is to cut off about 35% and make sure to file the ends down so they look just like the factory finished end that you just cut off.  I also sawed off my #4 LA.

My standard beak rack includes 2 #1's 3 #2's and 2 #3's.

Don't forget the cam hooks, they make it easier to skip LA and some angle scars.  A couple of the bigger Pika hooks are nice too.

I have a set of Lowe Balls and never really use them.  I guess I never got used to them, but I can see how they would really be handy.  The only ball nuts that are currently available are made by Trango and slightly different and subsequently not quite as good and the original Lowe Balls.  I got lucky, shop around.

Aliens are essential up until Red.  The next one up, orange, can come in handy as well but you only need one. 
A single or double set of Offset aliens really make things easier and cut down on the number of sawed angles you will place on your way to EC glory. 

Most EC routes take at least 3 sets of C4's from .5 to #3.  Real luxury items are #5 and #6 Wild Country cams. 

Your smallest C3's will come in handy, I use the new style gray and purple Metolius tcu's more that the black and blue Aliens. 

Hope this helps

[Garbonzo]

My usual "base" rack.  Things are added or shaved down as appropriate for the route:

Nuts:
1 set standard BD stoppers, from about #3-13
1.5 sets assorts brass stoppers, various brands from years of gain/loss
1-2 sets offset brass HB's
1 partial set aluminum offsets (what little I have left)

Cams:

2 sets offset aliens (usually single blue black, just not as useful)
2-3 sets blue-red aliens (I have no grays, never missed them)
1 black alien (depending on topo)
0-1 set TCU's (if my patner has aliens we leave the TCU's at home)
2 sets camalots 0.75-3, extra of whatever the topo calls for
larger cams as needed
pink and red tri-cam, sometimes brown too.  Just handy to have some wierd stuff

Draws:
20-30 assorted draws.  Roughle 1/3 ~6", 1/3 12", 1/3 24" trad draws
2-4 screamers (for moderate routes)

Biners:
~20 free biners
~20 lockers

Hooks (kept in a couple small Fish Beef Bags):
2 talons
2-3 skyhooks
2 cliffhangers
2 narrow cam hooks
2 wide camhooks
1-2 big hooks (the "Fish" hook, and the new "Fish Ring Angle Hook")

Other:
various rivent hangers as called for (cinches are glorious)
dozen tie-offs
hauler/pulley
roll of duck tape on a loop of 3mm cord

[skully]

The 'Bone isn't into 'em, but I like the hexes.
Makes like another set of cams, if ya can work 'em.
I dunno, maybe I'm "old School", but they are light & useful.
Lowe balls are good, too, but really come into their own in sandstone.
You can get really inventive with combos, too. Nuts with pins, stacks(nuts stack, too.), etc.
Just my .02.

[JC5123]

Rather than start a new topic, I'll ask this here.

When it comes to cams, and stoppers, do you guys think it is better to get complete sets of on brand, or mix it up. Go heinz 57 and have tons of variety?

[skully]

I, personally, prefer variety. Different items stick differently.
That goes for cams & Nuts, too.
I STILL think in Friend sizes, though.
You might consider the two tiny tricams, Garbonzo.
I find them VERY useful. Tiny white &  Black.

[Garbonzo]

This list is a bit out of date, but gives an idea...


   Nuts
-   2xOffset Nuts (brass to large, missing #10)
-   RP's (1 set)
-   BD Micros (1 set)
-   Regular Nuts (2.5 sets)
-6   tricams pink up to #6
-2   #2 and #3 slider nuts
   
Cams by size
-7   Offset Aliens 1x Blue-Black, 2x blue-green, 2x green-yellow, 2x yellow-green
-4   2x black alien, 2x grey TCU
-4   2x blue alien, 2x purple TCU
-5   2x green alien, 2x blue TCU, 1x #0 friend
-5   2x yellow alien, 1x yellow TCU, 1x WB TCU, 1x 0.4 camalot
-3   3x red alien
-5   2x 0.75 camalot, 1x #1.75 friend, 1x #2 friend, 1x Orange Alien
-6   3x #1 camalot (one old), 1x #2.5 HB, #1 max-cam   , 1x #2.5 Friend
-5   3x #2 camalot (one old), 2x #3 Friend, 1x Max Cam
-4   1x #3.5 friend, 2x #3 camalot, 1x Max Cam
-3   1x #4 friend, 1x #3.5 camalot, 1x #4 C4
-3   1x #5 friend, 1x #4 camalot, 1x #5 C4
-2   1x #6 friend, 1x #5 camalot
-1   1x #9 valley cam

   Other pro
-4   WC hexes 4,7,8, and 9 (lost 5 and 6)
-       Set of BD hexes to #11
-3   #3,4,5 big bro

   Biners/slings
-   20 draws
-   12 shoulder slings
-   6 double length
-   10 tie offs
-   5 cordlettes
-   ~150 total biners
-   ~20 lockers
-   10 rivet hangers

   Hooks
-   2x leepers
-   2x talon
-   3x Cliffhanger
-   2x Grappling
-   7x camhooks
-   1x fish hook

   Wall
-   4x adjustable daisy
-   Aiders (6)
-2x   Russian aiders
-5   ascenders
-   heads (~20x total #1-3)
-   hammer
-3   chisels/punches
-   wall hauler
-   2x spare mini pulley

[tomtom]

Here is a good pin rack that will get you up most EC trade routes (Zodiac, T-Trip, Muir Wall, Shield - add more sawed off arrows)
3 KBs
3 Peckers (one of each size) and one Rurp.
8 Arrows  (2-#1s, 3- #2s, 3-#3s, 2-#4s)
10 Angles (2 -1/2", 2- 5/8", 3- Sawed 3/4", 3 Sawed-1", 1- Sawed 1-1/4")
Handfull of heads, chisel and wire brush)

Here's a better pin rack for Zodiac:

Handful of heads, chise,l and wire brush

(i.e. no hammering pitons on Zodiac)

Ok, a couple sawed offs and beaks for hand placing can be useful.